Gear
Cross-country skiing needs more equipment than most aerobic training, and the wrong set makes the first season much harder than it has to be. Here is what matters when you buy, and what you can safely ignore at the start.
Rent before you buy
Start at a rental shop rather than in a store. The staff will match skis to your height and weight, you will learn the basics on gear that is already set up correctly, and after a few outings you will know which skis feel right under your feet. A season of rentals costs far less than one bad purchase.
When you do buy, ask a specialist to help you choose. Bring your body weight, your height and an honest description of where you will ski - groomed tracks, forest roads or deep snow.
Skis
Classic before skate
Begin with classic skis. The skating technique is harder to learn, demands better fitness and needs well-groomed tracks, so it is rarely a good first choice. Classic skiing is close to walking and you can ski usable kilometres on your first day.
Stiffness
Cross-country skis come stiff, medium and soft, and stiffness matters more than any other number on the ski. Two things decide it:
- Your body weight. A ski that is too stiff for you never grips; a ski that is too soft drags and feels slow.
- The snow you will ski on. Icy, hard-packed snow calls for a stiffer ski, fresh and unpacked snow for a softer one.
Technique changes the stiffness too - skate skis are stiffer than classic skis.
Length
Length follows your height first, then your technique and weight. Classic skis are longer than skate skis - roughly a fist above your head for classic, and about your own height plus a little for skating. Shops publish a sizing chart for every model; use it rather than a rule of thumb.
Waxable or waxless
Classic skis need grip under the foot, and you get it in one of two ways. Waxless skis are the better first choice: a fishscale pattern or a mohair skin does the work, so the skis are ready to use the moment you buy them. They are a little slower and slightly noisier, and that is the whole price you pay.
Waxable skis are faster and let you tune the grip to the day, but they need the right wax for the temperature and fresh preparation before most outings. Leave them until you know you want them.
Poles
The right pole length depends on your skis, your technique and the terrain. Height matters far more than the type or the weight of the pole. As a guide, classic poles reach roughly to your armpit, skating poles roughly to your chin or lips.
Check the straps before anything else. They have to sit firmly around your wrists over gloves, without slack - you do not want to lose a pole, and skiing is far easier when a well-strapped pole swings with your arm instead of being gripped the whole time.
If you will ski on prepared tracks, choose narrow baskets; wide baskets meant for deep snow catch on the track and slow you down.
Boots
Boots are the simplest part of the set, with one hard rule: the boot has to be comfortable and it has to match the binding system on your skis. Most current gear is NNN-compatible - NNN, Prolink and Turnamic soles fit each other - while older SNS boots only go into SNS bindings. Check the sole and the binding together before you pay.
Boots also split into classic and skate models. Skate boots are stiffer and support the ankle much more firmly; classic boots stay softer so the foot can roll.
Newer models give you noticeably better control while you are still learning. Try boots on in the socks you will actually ski in, and walk around the shop in them.
Clothing
Cross-country skiing is an aerobic sport, not a chairlift sport. Thick jackets, bulky gloves and large goggles get in your way and overheat you within a kilometre.
Dress as you would for a jog in bad weather. You want to be warm and comfortable without any restriction of movement. Use several thin layers rather than one thick one: you will burn a lot of calories and produce a lot of heat even on an easy ski, and layers let you match your clothing to the conditions and to how hard you are working. Add a hat and thin gloves, and carry a light windproof layer for the descents, when you cool down fast.
Everything else
The rest of the equipment is a matter of preference and need. Buy it once you know you miss it, and ask a specialist what is worth having for the skiing you actually do.